This is the start of a pretty epic catch up on my blog-writing, starting with a trip back at the end of May 2013 and the commencement of the TGS cycling season. Having absolutely loved the eastern Dolomites last year (see July 2012 blog entries) the decision was made to return to Italy but head west to Bormio. With a resident population of 4,200, Bormio is a major ski-station during the winter nestled in the Lombardy region amongst the Alps of northern Italy. This meant big, long climbs and less of the dramatic, sheer faces of the Dolomites but plenty of equally stunning scenery.
TGS kit was out in force thanks to our kit secretary WJD insisting on formal-wear for the first day. From L-R JK, Williams, Em, Flynn, Gibson, Me & WJD, outside Hotel Genzianella. Most of the time kit was hidden amongst layers of clothing as spring weather struggled to shift the wintry conditions out of the way.
The girls: Chrisie, Em & I.
The warm up (Passo di Cacano I think... this is the problem with writing the blog 6 months late...):
WJD and I at the top of Cancano:
Superb view looking back over the Cancano switchbacks:
Day 2 - Motirolo and Gavia
Late May is always a little early to be hitting the high passes, of which we were going to be attempting three over the next five days (Gavia, Livigno & Stelvio), and our first big day of the trip fell foul to the lack of any spring conditions having been present in the previous weeks. It made the scenery more dramatic as we were surrounded by snow-capped mountains.
The first big day we took on the Mortirolo. Anything with 'death' in the name isn't going to be enjoyable and this was easily one of the most challenging climbs I've ever done. Every time you turned a corner the road seemed to get steeper and it didn't let up until you got to 1km from the top. This demonstrates what the climb involved: an average gradient of 10.5%. Savage.
Relieved to reach the top. The lack of photos from the climb is testament to the amount of effort required - I didn't have the chance to take my hands off the handlebars for a photo!
We enjoyed the descent down into Monno and then started the gentle climb up to the base of the Gavia and the village of Ponte di Legno at which point we were on the home straight to Bormio with the small issue of the Gavia standing in our way. Another challenging climb, albeit a lower average gradient than the Mortirolo (not difficult) and then a quick descent down into Bormio. That was, until we met Sam Brown and Paddy coming back down the climb having hit 3ft+ snow drifts circa 2km from the top. Had I made it that far I might have insisted we carry our bikes through the snow when we were so close to home but I was assured it was freezing at the summit and the snow was quite simply too deep even to walk through - especially in cleats.
Whilst I don't like to admit to having to get a lift home, I'm afraid to say that this is what we resorted to, mainly because the boys had cooked themselves on the Gavia. Saying that, I'm not sure how keen I would have been for the Mortirolo again or the 35km's back up the valley into Bormio. The hotel came to its own at this point having phoned them to ask for taxi numbers they sent out two vans and a serious bike trailer to collect us for what was a 3 hour round trip. We hit the pub in the interim.
Not wanting to be outdone by the Gavia we decided to do a gentle out and back up the north side the following day. Here the late starters catch me up as I nearly fall over (as do they) trying to get my camera out.
Chrisie heading through one of the lighter tunnels.
Getting as far as we could. I full appreciated the decision our advance-party had made the day before at this stage. I'm looking surprisingly happy given how freezing cold it was up there.
Could have gone with some ski poles and a hat at this point. All the layers went on.
Williams on the hoods proving why he doesn't go very fast downhill. That said, there were some big wide open straights as we approached Bormio and we topped out at just over 70kph at one point with me following in his wake.
JK looking very pro.
Back in the bike room where there was plenty of bike porn.
Below is the view from the front garden of our Hotel, 'Genzianella' http://www.genzianella.com. I cannot recommend this place highly enough for a cycling holiday. We were treated like Kings and Queens, fed to full at every meal and the service was excellent (and beautiful - the boys were all very prompt for supper as a result). They washed your kit every night and the sauna provided some much need muscle-soothing. They even gave us a pair of cycling socks to remember them by.
Final big penultimate day on our way to Tirano and then Livigno via Switzerland. Probably my favourite shot of the holiday:
Into Switzerland (without any requirement for a passport check, which was lucky, because we'd all forgotten them), cycling along next to the train track which caused issues for Em shortly after this shot was taken. Our only fall of the trip but luckily no injuries or damage as a result.
Stunning views across the Lago di Poschiavo and then on up to the Passo del Bellina, at which point we turned right, dropped down along a wide flat valley and then on up the final brutal climb to Passo del Livigno.
The final climb up to Passo del Livigno hit 14% at one point and at the end of 35km's of uphill it was long and draining. I was glad of JK and Em's company by now, steadily plugging away with them to the top. Our progress was halted at various points as we kept getting flagged down by various Germans on bikes and Dutch in their camper vans telling us there had been an avalanche and that the road was impassable. This was slightly concerning as all the others were ahead of us - only Flynn was still to come. We ploughed on to reach the summit of the Passo, only to jump back on the bikes expecting to descend and immediately see the others parked up for what had to be the best bowl of spaghetti carbonara we'd had all holiday. At this point we realised we'd lost Chris 'what avalanche' Beard. In an attempt to get ahead of the crowd he hadn't bothered to stop at the top of the pass (lunch is for wimps right?! Pah), so had continued straight down the descent. He was seriously lucky by the sounds of things because the others weren't far behind and had to turn back due to about 50m of road being covered in large piles of snow.
Looking back down the climb up to Livigno:
At the top of the Passo di Livigno and very happy to have made it:
After the disappointment of the Gavia, we were now faced with another pretty serious logistical issue. Luckily our resident mountain goat, Roly 'the 'tache' Chuter, was straight out and down the road to make enquiries as to how long it was going to take to clear. He came back looking concerned. "It could take 2 to 3 hours to clear I reckon, I'm not sure we're getting through this afternoon". This wasn't what we wanted to hear. It was a long descent back to Tirano and, again, the slog back to Bormio was not one any of us was going to relish. At this point Flynn finally turned up - he'd dogged out the climb at his usual steady pace and needed food, so we had another 20-30 minutes camped out in the restaurant. There was a train from Tirano to Bormio if all else failed, but we didn't want two failed round trips this holiday. Luckily Roly was superbly wrong with his guestimate and as Flynn devoured the last mouthfuls of his spaghetti there was much activity in the restaurant as the information filtered through that the avalanche had been cleared.
We enjoyed the descent after picking our way through the snowy avalanche remains. I had to stop to take pictures of these palominos. Too small for Haflingers I think, but maybe they are a smaller Alpine variety?
Back at the ranch warming down, stretching and drinking beer in the gardens of the Genzianella.
The final fling. The last morning we decided to make a final ascent of the Stelvio, probably one of the most famous Passo's in the area. We'd been unable to do the whole loop due to a race that weekend, but we enjoyed the switch backs on the way up and back down the south side.
The Passo dello Stelvio with a very enjoyable hot chocolate at the top.
A superb photo of Em, courtesy of JK, on her way back down the south side.
Switch backs on the south side. If you look closely you can see Roly, Beard and Gibson on their way down.
Enjoying the view and the photo opportunity.
Stunning views on the way back down the valley to Bormio - sunshine on a church in the distance.
And then back on the bus to Verona airport where the obligatory weigh-in took place. What with pizza, beer and perhaps not enough pedalling, most of us had put on weight. Bring on the Raid in 2014....
