The two vehicles we took this time were 1949 and 1951 series I Land Rovers. A project over the last few years for Uncle William was to overhaul these two vehicles and, having put the trip in the diary, he soon had a deadline to work towards. For anyone that has read about the adventures of the 'Oxford and Cambridge Far Eastern Expedition' in the excellent book 'First Overland' this, along with the original family trip, was the inspiration.
1949 - 109 VDE
1951 - HWN 157
No modern comforts for the trip ahead.
In the run up to the trip there was much route-planning and dredging up of old memories: trying to remember where they'd been all those years ago. The main orchestrators were my father John, a Durden, and Uncle William, a McNamara. The Mac's, as they are fondly known, live in a beautiful corner of Pembrokeshire and the families have holidayed together both in Pembs and various other locations around the world for years. My Grandmother (aka Nanny), Eunice, and Uncle Wiliam's father, Geoff, were first cousins and were very close throughout their lives.
The night before we departed we had an obligatory slide show of the original DoW trip [I will try and get digital copies of some of the slides to add to this blog in due course...] along with a few comedy photos of the now 'oldies' in their much younger years - from kids on the farm in the 50's through to the 60's and 70's when they were all getting married. We had a real giggle and enjoyed seeing some of the original DoW photos when they had to re-build bits of road and navigate their way down narrow farm tracks. Very little tarmac in those days.
Sunset on the eve of departure:
The work horses and the 'support vehicle' - needless to say, no one wanted to enjoy the comforts of a brand new Discovery: we were all fighting to have a go in the Land Rovers!
The convoy leaves Glenafon Manor, Haverfordwest.
The planned route took us from Haverfordwest up the old A40 to Llandovery. The first part of the trip involved my first ever McDonald's Egg McMuffin for breakfast (surprisingly good) and some of the only overtaking we saw the Landy's do that week...
Queuing up in the drive thru' McD's: the next generation.
From here we headed due north towards Cilycwm and Rhandirmwym along a beautiful single track road along the bottom of a valley that took us up into the foothills of the Cambrian Mountains.
Once we were satisfied that it wasn't going to rain preparations were made to enjoy the most of the sunshine. Having been unsure as to the state of the roads it appeared that they were mostly tarmac so progress was fast and at one point our concern was that we would get to our end-destination - Strata Florida Abbey - far too early!
One of our co-drivers and hot-water bottle for the camping.
More tarmac...
First stop: the Llyn Brianne Dam. This categorically was not in existence 50 years ago having been built in the 70's. It included a dramatic storm-water run-off which can be seen below. Fun on a skateboard perhaps?
View from the edge of the Clywedog Reservoir which was created by the Lynn Brianne dam in the early 70's. Possible open water swimming venue? It would have been pretty fresh at the end of April so I was glad I hadn't brought my wetsuit with me.
Heading deep into the Cambrian Mountains. The colouring of the landscape at this time of year also alluded to a 'desert'.
After lunch one of our map readers spotted another track which appeared to be passable and we set off to enjoy some off-road entertainment. Again, everyone was clambering to be in the Landy's but the Discovery was pretty impressive, if a little boring.
There is a similar shot of the trip 50 years ago as the one below. A few different outfits / haircuts and just the one Land Rover back in the 60's.
The Discovery did suffer a few scratches, which may have been the result of going a bit too close to the edge. I'm relieved to say that it was not me driving at this point.
Hold on to the dogs!
The final approach to Strata Florida Abbey
They made it look easy...
Strata Florida chapel and graveyard.
The first abbey actually lay 2 miles from the current site and was founded by the Norman Robert Fitz Stephen in 1164 for the Cistercians by the banks of the Afon Fflur. The name "Strata Florida" derives its name from this stream (Vale of Fflur, or 'flowers'). The abbey was a daughter house of the great Cistercian abbey at Whitland, and the first colony of monks would have come from there. The abbey was moved to its present position on the banks of the river Teifi, most likely as a result of politics: in 1166 the Welsh prince of south Wales Rhys ap Gruffydd conquered Norman holdings in Ceredigion and took control of the area. The Cistercian order, committed to a life of rural simplicity, was very successful in Wales, and Rhys was happy to take over the new foundation. Indeed, he later even became known as the founder of Strata Florida for which he had a special affection. The north and south transepts can still be seen along with a number of surrounding burial mounds. Otherwise there is very little left of the structure.
The west doorway of Strate Florida Abbey.
Strata Florida chapel / stained glass window.
A power nap after a long day at the wheel.
Our faithful assistants and carriage dogs.
Another ruin, with a stunning garage / stable...
... and one hell of a view.
Incredible views from the top of the hill climb out of Pontrhydfendigaid after we walked from the abbey.
Gorgeous Welsh Cob stallion (section D / C?)
A new born lamb.
Food and shelter for the night. The Black Lion at Pontrhydfendigaid. Delicious steak and ale pie.
Setting up camp. Who needs a tent?
We were treated to an incredible aerial display by a couple of red kites at sunset. These birds had once been perilously close to extinction after the Vermin Acts of the 16th century and further persecution in the 17th and 18th centuries. At the end of the latter gamekeepers were employed on country estates specifically employed to kill the kites which threatened game birds and other wildlife. By the late 18th century red kites had bred for the last time in England but only in rural mid-Wales did an unofficial protection programme attempt to safeguard the bird. Over a period of about 100 years a fragile breeding population was maintained by committed generations of landowners, rural communities and individuals. They now thrive in this area and in certain parts of the south-east.
After a somewhat cold and disturbed night's sleep, not to mention Uncle Robert in a very noisy 'bivvy bag' which provided much hilarity at 2am, we awoke to another gorgeous day. The camp fire was already roaring again and we enjoyed a full fry up at the Black Lion. Before setting off that morning the cars were checked over and an unusual rattle noticed by James Mac (William's son). This was an excellent spot because we'd actually lost one of the main bolts holding the gear box in place. One remained and was doing its job but with more off-road planned today, it was a vital find because we would have been in trouble if the second bolt had failed.
We hung around waiting for the local garage to open and then raided it for a similar bolt to the one we'd lost.
Running repairs were completed and after some limited conversation with the locals off we went on our merry way.
Astoundingly, for Wales, there was not a cloud in the sky and we set off to find some more of the off-road tracks that we had enjoyed the previous day.
Our first and only serious mechanical of the trip was, of course, on the Discovery with both Landy's avoiding any huge disaster (second incident to come...). A puncture and, I'm delighted to say, when the old man (JD) was driving so he had no one to blame but himself.
Definitely by luck rather than judgement we saved the best until last in terms of the off-road. The overhang on the back of the Discovery meant that it didn't even attempt it - pah! James lead the way...
And then the old boys had a go, not wanting to be outdone by the youngsters. I've blown this one up a bit so that you can see the look of exhilaration / terror on their faces.
The final, and biggest, of all the water crossings.
James (standing, on the far left) was heard to shout loudly, "stay left, stay left" as the 1951 Landy was seen to almost submarine in a deep pool.
As the three vehicles moved through the water the '49 Landy started making the most horrendous noise: loud, rhythmical clunks as the engine turned over. Once the water was shallow enough William stopped to inspect and, as she was turned over a couple more times, we heard another bang and a 'plop' as a small stone was spat out of the fan. The mechanics weren't ever required as she sorted herself out!
We trundled home after a delicious lunch on the river bank and a final snooze before hitting the tarmac again. I was suddenly very jealous of the Oxford & Cambridge Far Eastern Expedition of the 1950's: was it still possible to do London to Singapore Overland, and would a couple of Series I's still make it? Based on their performance in Wales, we didn't see why not.
Watch this space.
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